The image above effectively demonstrates the breakdown of the skin barrier during the cleansing process. The blue structures represent corneocytes, and the round, green elements within them are Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMF). NMFs are responsible for retaining moisture in the skin. The yellow substances filling the spaces between the blue corneocytes are various lipids. In summary, the skin barrier is a highly unique structure where NMFs, which hold moisture, are present within square-shaped corneocytes; these corneocytes are tightly bound together; and lipids fill the gaps between them like cement.

Impact of Cleansing

Moisture loss
Reduction in NMFs, which retain moisture
Decrease in lipids that firmly bind corneocytes together

During this process, the pH changes, the skin barrier is compromised, and there's a lack of essential materials for its repair. The continuous emphasis on the importance of proper cleansing stems from the fact that the skin's naturally formed barrier structure, designed to protect it, can be entirely ruined by harsh cleansing.

Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF)

Substances within cells that can retain moisture are called Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMF). A representative NMF is amino acid. Since many amino acids are produced during the breakdown of filaggrin, genetic differences in filaggrin production capacity can be related to skin constitution.

Does an atopic constitution exist? Previous posts

In addition to amino acids, there are several other types of NMFs. Ingredients with hygroscopic properties, similar to NMFs, can be utilized as moisturizer components. Glycerin is a prime example, along with lactic acid, panthenol, and others.

Moisturizing Strategies

Strategies for skin moisturization focus on reducing moisture loss. Ingredients like glycerin and panthenol, which can effectively retain moisture, are called humectants. Conversely, forming an oily barrier on the skin's surface can prevent moisture evaporation. These ingredients are known as occlusives. Typical examples include petrolatum, commonly known as Vaseline, and lanolin. Furthermore, filling the spaces between corneocytes with substances similar to the yellow lipids mentioned earlier is referred to as an emollient action. Most moisturizers combine humectant, occlusive, and emollient ingredients to provide effective moisturization.

Recommended use of emollients in inflammatory dermatoses View resources

Precautions When Choosing Moisturizers

Products containing numerous 'beneficial' ingredients can sometimes be detrimental. This is especially true for sensitive skin with a compromised barrier, where irritation or allergic reactions may occur. When studying the principles of moisturizers, it becomes clear that it's best to choose products dedicated solely to moisturizing. Glycerin, which is almost universally included in moisturizers, is a well-researched and excellent ingredient.